nubira with no power help needed plsss

[dady619]

hi last friday my nabira lost power can only do 80ks at its best. taking of is poor takes so long to get going and even then i have to ride the clutch. after round 10ks the check engane light comes on then 5min later off so on and so on iv had to drive it to get to the nearest town to get it checked but there bizzy for the next 2 weeks i live in the bush. iv pulled of the cat and its still the same when in idel mode and out off gear i hit the trottle and it is slow to respond anyone have any idea? thanks heap

[buddha1985]

Ur saying the car wont accelerate? If Thats the case could be a few things.
Would start with fuel filters and the look at spark plugs then leads then injectors may be one of those but would start with fuel filters then plugs and see how u go

[benzino]

how bout bad oxygen sensor or map sensor, it sounds like some sort of limp mode if it's even doing it with no load

only one mechanic mate? sounds like you live out the back of bourke. good work for choosing a daewoo rather than a commodore or a falcon, it's good to be different

[dady619]

how bout bad oxygen sensor or map sensor, it sounds like some sort of limp mode if it's even doing it with no load

only one mechanic mate? sounds like you live out the back of bourke. good work for choosing a daewoo rather than a commodore or a falcon, it's good to be different

lol we did have2o but 1 shut down. yep i would say it is in limp mode. where would i find the 2 sensors and is there a way to check them thanks. ps iv also got a ford transit but put a commodore v6 in it

[benzino]

Oxygen sensor is on the exhaust manifold and map sensor is on the firewall with a vac hose from the intake manifold going to it.

[dady619]

can it be tested thanks

[benzino]

yeah it can, check the output with a multimeter
not sure of what the correct voltage output is though, someone on here might know

[dady619]

here is what i found there is 1 wire of the manifold its a single purple wire bolts into the exhaust manifols volts are (with motor running) 0.00 to 0.10 at best. the sensor on the flywall has 3 wires from right to left the volts are (orange/black stripe 0.37volts) (light green 3.00volts) (green/black stripe 4.65volts) all with plug in and motor running could anyone please tell me if it sounds right aslo found it very hard to start had no revs at all for 30sec and now still very slow and poor reves also i took out the air fillter and i found it had a bad burn in it thanks

[dady619]

2nite i went out started the car warmed it up and the front pipe glowed red not all the way to the cat but to first box looking thing lol i was told my cat was ok and from the cat to the motor was just stright trow pipe but i think he was wrong if anyone has had this befor could you please tell me what it was thanks heaps

[benzino]

that's probably the first cat (pre-cat) and could be (most likely) blocked. this might have also damaged the oxygen sensor.

take it off and hold it up to the light to check if it's blocked. you can knock that cat out if you want... you will still have the main one

[dady619]

thanks mate it is the first one and its round 20cm long and aboult 4inch round would that be it thanks again

[benzino]

google told me this:

Old 05-15-2009, 01:21 PM
l1tech l1tech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister T View Post
As it's been stated earlier If your manifold is glowing it is likely your emission systems attempting to light off the cats.

NO...if your manifolds are glowing you have either jumped time or the car is running EXTREMELY lean...I have said this before...I am not guessing...this is fact.
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#30
Old 05-15-2009, 10:17 PM
Mister T Mister T is offline
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Although I agree that there may be a timing issue, the manifold shouldn't be glowing if you were running lean. He would be detonating and his car would sound like a diesel and bucking under acceleration on account of the ECU cutting timing and fuel delivery. As I said earlier, a glowing manifold means that an inordinate amount of heat is being delivered at the end of the combustion cycle. This means that the timing is retarded, and there is an excess of fuel being burned in the manifold. Which jibes with your timing theory. However, due to the emission tampering and his straight pipes I wouldn't throw out the the startup mixture/timing and secondary air injection going overboard theory. As for the rich/lean question, pull the plugs and see. If I'm right they'll be black. If I'm wrong (and it has been known to happen) they'll be white. My biggest question is how does the timing jump on these cars?

Read this it may help some
http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread/t-72712.html
http://www.nissanforums.com/naturall...ader-glow.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/blow...pm-158222.html
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=829381

Also: from Wikipedia (Catalytic Converter and Secondary air injection)
Meltdown
Any condition that causes abnormally high levels of unburned hydrocarbons — raw or partially-burnt fuel — to reach the converter will tend to significantly elevate its temperature, bringing the risk of a meltdown of the substrate and resultant catalytic deactivation and severe exhaust restriction. Vehicles equipped with OBD-II diagnostic systems are designed to alert the driver of a misfire condition, along with other malfunctions, by means of the "Check Engine" light on the dashboard.

Secondary air injection (commonly air injection, colloquially smog pump, trademark Air Injection Reactor) is an automobile emissions control strategy introduced in 1966, wherein fresh air is injected into the exhaust stream. The exact mechanism by which exhaust emissions are controlled depends on the method of injection and the point at which air enters the exhaust system. The first systems injected air very close to the engine, either in the cylinder head's exhaust ports or in the exhaust manifold. These systems provided oxygen to oxidize (burn) unburned and partially-burned fuel in the exhaust before its ejection from the tailpipe. There was significant such unburned and partially-burned fuel in the exhaust of 1960s and early 1970s vehicles, and so secondary air injection significantly reduced tailpipe emissions. However, the extra heat of recombustion, particularly with an excessively rich exhaust caused by misfiring or a maladjusted carburetor, tended to damage exhaust valves and could even be seen to cause the exhaust manifold to incandesce.

[dady619]

i dont think its jumped time it got red hot in 2min and it was only the front pipe i went to a mechanic and he said he thinks its the cat i took the cat out and it was still the same but i did not take of the front pipe i will tomorow and im hoping thats all it is if its not should i check my tining thanks

[benzino]

there's plenty on the web if you google it as well

it's a pretty universal problem if it is the cat

good luck i hope it's just a simple problem

[dady619]

iv been on the net all day lol thanks heaps for your help dale