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gse_turbo's new-bira (dialup warning)

Forced induction, NA tunning, exhaust, just performance

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Postby gse_turbo » Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:31 pm

...actually, i fyou have them, the coolent routing and vacuum diagrams would be nice... if they're handy, if not I think I can find them.
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Day 4

Postby gse_turbo » Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:56 pm

Day 4 I continued to prep the motor to pull the head, all that's left is the head studs and it out of there.

I also started preping a spare head to put into the car. it doesn't have the stainless valves that the head coming out has but a ver strong head none the less.

I decided to try out the "groove" idea, from everything I've read it seams pretty logical.

I started by placing the locating dowels into the head to center up the head gasket, then I traced everything out.
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at first I was going to just do one on either side...
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...then decided to do three all together on the exhaust side and one on the intake.
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I also finished up by stripping the header the rest o fthe wey... for the most part. I'll be going over what should be the proper way to modify a premade header wit hthe new flanges.
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Postby daewoomofo » Fri Jul 18, 2008 9:11 pm

looking good!
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Postby Nubira2.2 » Sat Jul 19, 2008 6:53 am

what are the grooves for ???
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Postby Big Jeff » Sat Jul 19, 2008 4:00 pm

Nubira2.2 wrote:what are the grooves for ???


+1 :?
Daewoo Lanos SX,
1.6 16v DOHC,

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Postby gse_turbo » Sat Jul 19, 2008 4:48 pm

:D glad you asked...

here is a pretty good write-up on the topic


here is the link to the first photo gallery


here is the link to the second photo gallery ...one of my favorite pics is the last one on this page. you can see the force the design expels.

***keep in mind that this is an experimental technique and there are as many people for the design as there are against it. ***

Garrett
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Day 5-8

Postby gse_turbo » Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:54 pm

well day 5-8 have seen the project nearly come to a halt. there was little progress and some more parts have arrived but new roadblocks seam to pop up.

ATTENTION!! for those about to install ARP head studs, DO NOT use a 13mm 12-point socket. the threads may be metric but the nut is 1/2" 12-point, I just don't every see that mentioned. what you need is a deep, 12-point, 1/2"-drive, 1/2" socket, it's a bit hard to find and Sears is the ONLY place in my town that I found one.


I pulled the head to get ready for the swap and that's when things got interesting. started with pulling the cams of course and it appears that someone tried to use dowels to center an locate the cam caps. even though that sounds like a good idea it wasn't carried out properly. it looks like they didn't counter sink hole into the head or caps to actually hold the dowels, the just put them in place and tightened the caps down. needless to say, that didn't work and most of dowels just broke and the rest just wedged against the bolts and made it difficult to get the bolts out. had pics but they did come out.

that's where the fun began :roll: ...there are a couple issues here but can anyone tell me what the biggest problem is with this picture!? I'll let you guys chime in and as a hint, it's not the valve interference.
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here are the pics of the rest of the pistons. notice the impact marks from the valves and the bright orange rust water.
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take a look at the valves, looks like everything is fine but still not using this head. I'll have this one apart soon. :)
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now before pulling the head I set the cams to TDC and guess what I found... this is where the crank was set according to the cams. all I can think is that it was set like this to eliminate the interference and the performance must have sucked ass!
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so I got back to porting the head and intake I'll be using on the car. the head went pretty fast but it was the manifold the surprised me with the amount of time it took to port. I didn't take as many final pics as I thought so I'll add some tomorrow (my digital camera isn't worth dung!)
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then I moved on to the header and got a little more done while I'm waiting for the flanges to get finished.
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got some other goods, Optima RT, new diaphragm for the wastegate and what was supposed to be the only needed fix that was keeping the car from running... the clutch slave.
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I tried to go the cheap way and just buy the new diaphragm from some aftermarket company. before I ordered the part I contacted Tial to see if the diaphragm was replaceable and they said no. well I can see why! I tried just about everything and no luck... now i back to square one and having to buy a complete diaphragm assembly like Tial said in the beginning.
Last edited by gse_turbo on Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Pir0 » Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:33 pm

Jesus, a lot seems to be going wrong, or was wrong with this project.

Seems like an awful lotta work. And without seeing the pics, from what you said, did they move the timing so that when at TDC the valves wouldnt hit the piston, like, by retarding or advancing a few teeth, so the valves came down at their max when the pistons not at the correct place? :/

Nice.


Ack well, i bet in the end you'll be without a doubt, happy with it. Honestly. It's one of those things, it's such a pain, but you'll be so happy taking the first drive in it. And probably happier when you eventually come to sell it, like with most modified cars, the 2 times you smile the most is the first drive and when you go to sell the damn thing lol.
SAZ
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Postby gse_turbo » Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:27 pm

well the pics are up now... tell me what ya see. ;)
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Re: Day 5-8

Postby gse_turbo » Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:26 pm

gse_turbo wrote: ...there are a couple issues here but can anyone tell me what the biggest problem is with this picture!? I'll let you guys chime in and as a hint, it's not the valve interference.
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well if no one has a guess at what the problem is I'll just give away the answer... THEY PUT THE PISTONS IN BACKWARDS!!! :x
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Postby BosnianLanos » Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:36 pm

OMG. There's nothing you can say to that.
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Postby daewoomofo » Wed Jul 23, 2008 9:56 pm

are they ok? it sounds like there are alot of things rigged on this car, should be nice when your done with it though
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Postby gse_turbo » Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:08 pm

ya everything looks ok to the eye, once I get the pistons out I'll be taking a better look at things. I'll probably decast the rods and have them balanced since they'll be apart.

the car has some issues but I wouldn't consider it a lemon... more of an union... :lol: keep removing one layer after another hoping to find something good you can enjoy just to find this layer was as bad as the privious. :)

...but like you said, the car will be nice once it's running.

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Postby BosnianLanos » Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:12 am

Any news on the shortblock? Is it useable, or will you have to scrap it?

Also, what parts of the engine will you reuse. I know the heads are getting replaced, but what about the pistons, rods, crank, etc? Would it have been more economical to just buy a lower-mileage 2.0 and do the build on that, just so that you know the condition of the motor before you sink more money into it?
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Postby gse_turbo » Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:21 am

well I'll pull the rods and pistons asap, I'll know after that. I'm sure everything is in good condition, the only thing that should really be damaged is the bearings if that. I plan on reusing the complete bottom end, it's a pretty stought build (as far as parts go) so i'm not too worried about damage at this point. I'll pretty much just decast the rods and have the pistons and rods balanced. I'll replace the rod bearings and see how the pistons rings are (should be ok). I'll use a thicker head gasket than stock just to be safe (.074 instaed of .051) but other than that it should be a really strong rebuild. I don't even plan on pulling the motor on this one.

... we'll just have to see what the rod bearings have to say about the plans though.

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